In the latest episode of Pizza Film School Season 3, the Russo Brothers sit down with legendary costume designer Judianna Makovsky, the creative mind behind Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone, The Hunger Games, Seabiscuit, and the Marvel Cinematic Universe—including Captain America: The Winter Soldier, Civil War, Infinity War, Endgame, and the upcoming The Electric State.

Over pizza from Pizzeria Mozza and a few Aperol Spritzes, the trio dives deep into the art of costume design, revealing how Makovsky shapes characters, worlds, and entire cinematic aesthetics—from Steve Rogers' tactical suit to Katniss Everdeen’s rebellion gear.

A Childhood Backstage Sparked a Career in Design

Makovsky’s journey started where most designers only dream of working—behind the scenes at the Metropolitan Opera. As a child, she performed in the children’s ballet and chorus, but while others focused on the stage, she was mesmerized by what was happening backstage.

“Apparently, everyone was always asking, ‘Where’s that child?’ And the answer was: ‘She’s watching them build the sets.’”

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From that moment, she was hooked. She later studied design at Yale Drama School, worked under legendary designers like Milena Canonero (Kubrick’s Barry Lyndon), and found herself at the forefront of crafting cinema’s most iconic costumes.

What Does a Costume Designer Actually Do?

Costume design isn’t just about clothes—it’s about storytelling. Every piece tells an audience who a character is before they say a word.

🎭 Works directly with directors & production designers to build the film’s visual world.
🧵 Collaborates with actors to ensure their costumes help them embody their characters.
🎨 Balances historical accuracy, creative vision, and practicality.
⚡ Handles everything from fabric choices to movement, texture, and silhouette.

“A costume designer is a collaborator. We work with the directors, the production designer, the camera team—we help bring the entire vision to life.”

Reimagining Superheroes: How She Redesigned Captain America & Bucky Barnes

When Makovsky joined Captain America: The Winter Soldier, the Russo Brothers had one major request:

🔥 Make Captain America’s suit feel real.

“We wanted it to look like if Cap walked around Washington, D.C., nobody would immediately stop and think, ‘That guy’s a superhero.’”

To achieve that, she:

✔️ Swapped out spandex for a Kevlar-inspired textured weave that looked tactical and battle-ready.
✔️ Muted the colors for a stealthy, real-world military aesthetic.
✔️ Engineered it for movement, ensuring Chris Evans could pull off the film’s high-intensity fight sequences.

Makovsky also reinvented Bucky Barnes’ Winter Soldier look, working with Marvel’s Ryan Meinerding to create a grounded but menacing design. One challenge?

💀 The Winter Soldier’s silver arm was originally supposed to be 100% CGI—until she and the Legacy Effects team pushed for a practical version.

“The moment Sebastian Stan put it on, we knew. It was so much more visceral than CGI.”

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That realism and weight helped define Winter Soldier’s brutal, unstoppable presence on screen.

The Evolution of Superhero Costumes: From Winter Soldier to Endgame

Makovsky continued refining Cap’s suit throughout the MCU, leading up to Endgame’s most intricate version yet—the scaled armor suit.

But designing for the MCU isn’t just about function—it’s about how costumes evolve alongside a character’s journey.

✅ Captain America’s suits became more rugged and battle-worn as he moved from idealistic hero to war-weary soldier.
✅ Scarlet Witch’s look transformed from streetwear to a fully realized, mythic costume by the end of Endgame.
✅ Vision’s wardrobe in Civil War was carefully designed to reflect his “projection of humanity.”

“When you hear Paul Bettany’s voice, you just know. Vision isn’t a flashy guy—he’s timeless, elegant, and precise.”

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These subtle shifts in fabric, texture, and silhouette helped tell the story of each character—long before they even spoke a word.

From District 12 to the Capitol: Crafting The Hunger Games

Before designing superheroes, Makovsky was responsible for one of the most striking visual contrasts in modern cinema—the class divide in The Hunger Games.

✔️ District 12: Muted, dusty tones. Depression-era miner’s clothes. Heavy work boots.
✔️ The Capitol: Extravagant couture. High fashion meets dystopian absurdity.
✔️ Katniss’ Evolution: The "girl on fire" dress needed to command attention without overpowering her character.

“If the audience only saw the dress and not Jennifer Lawrence, then we failed. The costume had to transform her—but it wasn’t about the costume.”

Makovsky’s restrained yet powerful approach made Katniss’ journey feel grounded, while still creating an instantly iconic look

Building the Wizarding World of Harry Potter

When Makovsky was brought onto Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone, the world of Hogwarts had yet to be visualized on screen.

One major decision?
📖 The books never mentioned Hogwarts uniforms—but Makovsky felt they were essential to defining the school’s atmosphere.

“The minute we put the kids in the uniforms, everyone knew. It created an instant, cohesive world.”

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✔️ She crafted Hogwarts uniforms with subtle, old-world British tailoring—timeless yet slightly whimsical.
✔️ Professor costumes referenced historical and Dickensian influences to feel rooted in tradition.
✔️ Even casual wizard wear was designed to look slightly offbeat and otherworldly.

Makovsky’s attention to detail shaped the entire aesthetic of the franchise, making it instantly recognizable worldwide.

The Secret to Great Costume Design? Restraint.

Despite working on some of the most visually elaborate films of all time, Makovsky believes that sometimes, the best costume design is the one you don’t notice.

“The best design supports the story without distracting from it.”

🎭 If the costume is too loud, it takes away from the performance.
🎬 If it blends seamlessly, it enhances the entire film.

Her philosophy?
⚡ Make the actor feel like the character.
⚡ Make the costume feel like part of the world.
⚡ Never let the design overpower the story.

As the Russo Brothers put it:

“Judianna didn’t just design costumes—she helped define entire cinematic worlds.”

Watch the full episode here → [HERE]

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